An adhesion assistant comes in three main forms: Bed adhesion is how well a part sticks to the build surface, and it’s typically most important for the first layer.
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While technically, flow and E-steps can both be used to solve the same problems, it’s best to tune the E-step value during printer calibration and adjust flow as required by particular print jobs.Įxtruder Calibration: How to Calibrate E-Steps Adhesion Assistant Brims provide a good balance between material consumption and bed adhesion (Source: UTA_FabLab via Thingiverse)Īn adhesion assistant is a physical feature added to a print – auto-generated by the slicer when instructed to do so – which is designed to enhance bed adhesion. In the end, adjusting flow affects how many steps the extruder’s motor turns per millimeter of material deposited.įlow can be used to account for over or under-extrusion on your printer without adjusting a printer’s E-step parameter, a value stored in firmware. For example, with a 100% flow rating, your printer might use 10 cm of filament for a particular part feature, but if you change the flow to 90%, the same feature would only require 9 cm. Just don’t raise the temperature too high, or else a part could deform on the bed.įlow, sometimes known as the extrusion multiplier, determines the rate at which filament is extruded.
Generally speaking, a hotter bed will provide better adhesion, while a cooler one could lead to warping. If so, bed temperature is another setting you can adjust, and it will affect your print’s bed adhesion. That’s just for the nozzle temperature, though bed temperature is a whole other player in 3D printing if your machine has a heated bed. At the other end of the spectrum, too low of a temperature will cause under-extrusion, where not all the layers are fully printed. Too high a nozzle temperature will cause over-extrusion with blobs and zits all over your print. Nozzle temperature should be the first thing you tune on your slicer whenever you begin printing with a new filament, and you can do this by printing a temperature tower to see which values work best. The temperature of the nozzle is the single most important setting in your slicer because, without a Goldilocks level of heat (not too cool, not too hot), no print will work. For each setting, we’ll discuss what it is and what it affects so that you can decide how you want to use it.įirst up is temperature. In this article, we’ll go over 10 slicer settings that are fundamental to 3D printing. If you want the highest quality prints or just to print something as quickly as possible, you have to know the primary settings to change on your slicer. Slicer settings cover all aspects of printing, from the temperature of the heated elements to the thickness of each wall and layer.
Printers and materials will therefore always require different settings to achieve a good print quality. Slicer settings are important because every 3D printer is different, every material is different, and every 3D model is different. If you don’t already have one, some super powerful and popular slicers include Cura, PrusaSlicer, and Simplif圓D.
With it, you can specify settings that dictate how your model will be printed. Without a slicer, your printer wouldn’t know how to function. But in case you aren’t, a slicer is a program that turns a 3D model file ( STL, OBJ, 3MF, etc.) into a G-code script, which can be interpreted by your machine’s firmware. If you’ve ever worked with a 3D printer, you’re probably familiar with slicers.
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